PRINCE & PRINCESS is a brand of premium pet foods for cats and dogs – feeding puppies and kittens to adults and through to their senior years. 

The PRINCE & PRINCESS PREMIUM range of food combinesunique recipes with the expertise of professional nutritionists in the formulation of a pet food that consists of human grade, GMO free, exotic quality meats that are not tested on animals and are integrated with pure and natural ingredients, from botanical fruits and vegetables to herbal extracts.

WE ADVISE TO AVOID LOW-GRADE INGREDIENTS AS THEY MAY CAUSE RESTLESSNESS, ALLERGIES, TUMMY UPSET, SKIN AND COAT PROBLEMS

PRINCE & PRINCESS PREMIUM pet foods embody a holistic approach that is tailored towards optimum health for the best physical and mental ability to ensure longer life. To maintain a healthy lifestyle, PRINCE & PRINCESS PREMIUM pet foods have applied attention to detail in the quality of their ingredients, some of which provide a source of alternative remedies that contribute towards strengthening the immune system and minimising the triggers that may cause health problems or allergic reactions – thus allowing your dog or cat to enjoy life with you.

Meat – a high source of protein from only human grade fresh meat and includes an exotic selection of meats ranging from venison, ostrich to buffalo and gnu which provide extra support to body cells and production of metabolism. Natural antioxidants – consist of a blend of vegetable and fruit extracts benefiting from a range of ingredients offering vast benefits. Support – with exceptional knowledge of the market we can provide technical support to the product range and nutritional advice for the consumer.

SERVING A MEAL THAT IS PACKED FULL OF GOODNESS

OUR VALUES

• Health first
• Back to basics of natural feeding
• High quality healthy formulations
• No artificial additives
• High palatability – irresistible for cats and dogs

OUR CARE
Health comes first. Our pet foods take care to promote good digestion, increasing levels of metabolic and calorific energy that contribute towards improving ability, appearance and agility.
Ability – to strengthen the immune system with the inclusion of phytonutrients (phenols, carotenoids and flavonoids), flushing out toxins in the body
Appearance – the balance of complete nutrients allocated to respective diets is reflected in all round body condition
Agility – fortified with a fusion of amino acids (building blocks of proteins), fats, vitamins A, B, C, D, E and K (water soluble), fibres and carbohydrates that provide the energy required for daily exercise.

Shop Prince Grain Free Dog Food Now

Shop Princess Grain Free Cat Food Now

We all love our bed & dogs are no exception!

Dogs are active animals who enjoy exploring, sniffing and playing but it’s also really important for them to get enough rest. As dog owners we can help our dogs to get the important down-time they need by making sure they have somewhere quiet and comfortable to snooze without any disturbances.

When choosing the correct dog bed, you will want to consider a few things.

First - Size up your dog!

It should be large enough for them to be able to lie comfortably in all natural positions. It will be a benefit to your dog if you put some effort into measuring them before purchasing a pet bed.  They will enjoy stretching out and having the room to lie comfortably.

Choosing where you will put the pet bed:

Your dog needs a quiet place to rest and unwind. None of us like being disturbed when we are trying to catch forty winks and dogs are no different.

Make sure your children know to leave your dog alone while he or she is in his bed - this is an important part of keeping children safe and dogs happy.

Ideally, the bed will not be in a drafty place or right beside a noisy washing machine.

What features do you need from a dog bed?

Determine which features are important and look at the washing instructions before purchasing. Some pet beds are washable, other pet beds are waterproof. All of our pets live different lives and the bed you choose may reflect this level of activity.

Choosing a pet bed for an apartment in Dublin may require different features than someone living by the sea in Donegal who will have a salty & sandy dog every few days!

Dog beds for injured or older dogs.

Some dogs may have specific needs when it comes to beds and older dogs or dogs with any aches, pains or joint problems might benefit from an orthopedic or memory foam bed which they can get in and out of easily.

Can dogs share beds?

If you have more than one dog, it is highly advisable to have a minimum of one bed per dog. This will avoid competition and unnecessary quarrels. If your dogs enjoy snuggling up together consider getting an additional dog bed large enough for them to comfortably share.

If you have any questions about choosing a dog bed please give us a call and we will help you choose the best bed for your dog.

We have been in the pet business for over 25 years - Call us on 015310884 with any questions.

Due to their nocturnal lifestyle and because they require a quiet environment during the day, they’re the ideal pet for people who are more active in the evenings or are more active during the night.

Taking care of a Chinchilla

Housing

The larger and taller the cage the better as Chinchillas are quite active. A cage with a minimum floor space of 24 by 24 inches is ideal. You should provide a wooden nest box for your chinchilla to hide/sleep in, and runs or ramps to climb up to different levels of the cage. A wire cage is the most suitable with very little plastic as they will chew through this. Wood shavings or newspaper should be placed on the floor of the cage. A water bottle can be attached to cage for drinking from and a heavy ceramic food dish for the nuggets.

Blocks of wood, tree branches ( free from pesticide) and some wooden toys are suitable for chewing and playing.

Feeding

Chinchillas are fibrevores, which means it’s absolutely necessary that they have a lot of fibre in their diet. This is provided by feeding a constant supply of good quality hay/ herbage, high fibre nuggets and fresh water. A chinchilla’s digestive tract is extremely sensitive, so greens should be kept to a minimum. Good greens would be broccoli, brussel sprouts, spinach, and peppers. Treat foods should be low in sugar, such as apples, pears or berries but in very small quantities. Raisins can be given in strict moderation to avoid GIT upsets, obesity and dental issues.

Cleaning

Provide a sand bath for your chinchilla once or twice a week. This should be special sand for your chinchilla, not ordinary sand. The bath should only be left in the cage for half an hour or so and then removed.

The bottom of the cage should be cleaned daily and food dish washed.

Handling

Chinchillas are fairly quiet, gentle animals that require very little care. They like to be held close to the body, one hand gently under the chest, the other supporting the hind end. Be careful not to grab the fur as this signifies an attack and Chinchillas instinctively defend themselves by throwing off hair. So if a predator tried to bite a chinchilla, it would release hair leaving the attacker with a mouthful of fur to allow the chinchilla to escape!

Reputable Kennels will always ask for a Vet Vaccine Card.

This card consists of three stricker that prove your dog is vaccinated by a certified vet and is safe to be placed within the kennel. Kennel Cough is one of these vaccines but it is not required by the Pet Passport nor is it part of the yearly booster vaccines, so you must ask your vet about this vaccine. These vaccinations are not only for your dog’s safety, but to ensure the welfare of the other dogs and pets. The Kennel reserves the right to refuse unvaccinated dogs or those that have been recently vaccinated. Kennels usually require at least 14 days between vaccination and the day of boarding.

Kennel Cough

Kennel Cough, caused by the Bordetella Bronchiseptica bacteria, is an airborne virus much like Whooping Cough or tracheobronchitis, an illness that often shows itself through hacking coughs, foamy phlegm and a lack of energy. It can take up to 10 days to appear and during this time, your dog will be highly contagious to other animals. Even dogs who may not actually fall sick can spread this virus to other dogs. It's spread via coughing and sneezing, much like the cold so interaction with other dogs will spread it, hence the reason Kennels are very particular that their borders have this vaccine. 

The Kennel Cough vaccine helps build up immunity and though it cannot cover all strains, it does lower the risk of Kennel Cough becoming a pandemic. Much like human vaccines.

If your dog presents symptoms of Kennel Cough, take them to the vet. Kennel Cough may need antibiotics depending on how serious it is. For young puppies and elderly dogs, Kennel Cough can be quite dangerous as the infection often weakens your dog’s respiratory tract against other pathogens. So seek help immediately and keep your infected dogs away from others.

The Kennel Cough Vaccine is a live vaccine that is sprayed up the nose of the dog. The vaccine works as a preventative measure to help protect your dog from the bacteria that can cause Kennel Cough. It is absolutely not a cure for Kennel Cough, nor is it beneficial for a dog who has Kennel Cough. As this is an annual vaccination, it must be repeated every year, so always take note of the date so you can reschedule for the following year. This helps keep your pet’s immune system up and lowers the risk of infection.

For those in Northern Ireland, I have been assured by RVN Mairead Boyce from the St. Elmo’s Veterinary Clinic that the procedure for the vaccination is much the same. One intranasal vaccination to be given annually. Vaccination can begin as young as 8 weeks and works to protect the dog against the Bordetella Bronchiseptica bacteria.

As the Kennel Cough vaccine is not required for the Pet Passport, it is not actively administered to your dog but most it’s an incredibly important vaccine. Not just to install your pet in a kennel, but to keep your dog and those pets around you as healthy as they can be. Contact your nearest vet for information today.

In the case of Kennel Cough, prevention is key.

Consider an alternative to your regular cat litter. Cat’s Best OkoPlus is an Organic Cat Litter that is 100% Biodegradable, which means you can place it in your compost heap or bio-waste container*.

The Breakdown

Cat’s Best OkoPlus is a clumping cat litter made from 100% naturally organic fibres that help make this litter super absorbent while neutralising odour. The litter contains a natural odour and germ trap which captures liquids and odours within the capillary system of organic fibres. Due to this, the litter has a fresh and natural scent that cat’s will find appealing.

It’s also significantly more economical than many other clumping cat litters. It has a more than 700% absorption of liquid which means the basic litter contents can remains in the litter tray for much longer. This not only saves litter, it creates less waste which means it’s friendly to the environment and costs less. It also weighs less most clumping litters.

As mentioned before, Cat’s Best OkoPlus is completely biodegradable. It’s produced using sustainable organic fibres and sold in environmentally-friendly paper bags. Because it’s made with natural organic fibres - much like toilet roll - this cat litter can be disposed of in a normal household toilet - you should only dispose of a single litter clump at a time and allow it to dissolve at a time. However, if you don’t want to risk this, clumps and hard excrement can be placed in your household waste while the basic cat litter can remain in the litter tray for 4-6 weeks, which cuts down on useage. Once used up, all litter content remaining after clumps have been removed can be placed on a compost heap or a bio-waste container - depending on local disposal regulations.

*Please check local disposal regulations.

Within Ireland, the DAFM (Dept of Agriculture, Food and Marine) have a list on their website of approved carriers of pets. Aer Lingus & Turkish Airlines are the only airlines officially allowed to transport your pet from Ireland to another country, while carriers such as Pets-on-board and Lufthansa-cargo can transport your pet internationally with minimum fuss. Check out their websites for more details and additions.

• For the moment, the DAFM only allow dogs, cats & ferrets to travel.

General Guidelines for flying with pets

• Most pets are carried in the aircraft hold, a heated and ventilated area for your pets comfort. Tell the Captain that your pet is on board to guarantee that the temperature of the cargo hold is maintained.

• Check with your airline to discover their policy on booking pets. Remember some airlines do not fly pets.

• Pets are not allowed to travel in the cabin of most planes. Check with the airline for their process for travelling with a service animal.

• Animals need to be 10 weeks or over to travel.

• In general, the max weight of the container (which you must provide) must not exceed 64kg/141 lbs - check with your airline to be certain, though.

• Certain breeds of dogs are restricted due to the damage they can cause if loose in the holds:  

• Akita, American Pit Bull, American Staffordshire Terrier, Argentino, Fila Brazillero, Mastiff, Pit Bull Terrier, Tosa, Rottweiler.

• Snub-nosed dogs or cats such as Bulldogs, Boxers, Pugs or Persian/Exotic cats, will not be permitted due to their inability to breathe easily and cool themselves down. This is for the safety of your pet.

• All airlines retain the right to refuse any live animal should it seem dangerous or aggressive.

• If the flight is operated by an airline partner, contact them as they may have their own restrictions.

Within the EU

Cats, dogs and ferrets can be taken aboard within the EU without the need for quarantine but there are strict rules.

They must be:

• vaccinated against rabies

• treated for tapeworm

• microchipped

and

• have a pet passport or third-country official vet certificate.

Between Ireland and Britain

When travelling between Ireland and Britain or within Ireland with dogs, cats and rabbits:

• Contact the airline at time of booking

• They’ll charge an extra fee and alert you of the breeds that are restricted from flying.

• You must provide your own crate and when you present your dog for check in, you’re agreeing that the airline is not responsible for how your dog reacts to flying.

Transatlantic

• The Dept of Agriculture, Food and Marine must give approval

• When travelling between Ireland and America with Aer Lingus, household pets (cats and dogs only) can be booked via reservations as extra baggage.

• You will have to pay an extra fee - check with your airline.

• Check with your airline on what you need to do if you’re not travelling with your pet or you wish to transport a different kind of animal.

Assistance Dogs

• Contact your airline at least 48 hours before travel

• With Aer Lingus suitably harnessed dogs can travel for free in the passenger cabin.

The following airlines/ferry companies have indicated that they will carry pets to/from Ireland within the EU.

http://www.agriculture.gov.ie/pets/registeredtransportersforcarryingpetsintoirelandfromtheeu/

So, let’s assume you’ve chosen a sunshine filled destination and you have booked your ticket, what next?

Having notified the airline that you’re taking your pet on holiday, you’ll need to get a good animal container for the flight. A solid plastic crate with good locks is preferable. A mesh cage will not suffice as an agitated pet could chew through it, though a mesh door is acceptable. Failure to produce the right kind of cage could result in the airport turning you away.

Before buying your crate, make sure you know the exact amount of space needed for your pet so that you purchase the right sized crate. Airlines will insist your dog can stand up and turn around, so your carrier must provide that space. It must also be leakproof should it get wet inside. Airlines use the following IATA diagram to ensure the animal has enough space to turn around normally while standing, to stand and sit erect, and to lie in a natural position.

Image

Once you’ve picked out a crate - you can find a few here - it is important that you train your animal to adjust to its new surroundings. Let it become familiar with the crate for a few weeks or even months before your planned departure. An animal that is comfortable in their surroundings travels better. Make the crate feel like a home for your pet and it will be less stressful for everyone involved.  

Double-check that all locks are secure and that your pet cannot disturb the mesh on the door. A loose dog in a cargo hold is not only dangerous but costly.

Some airlines will require a health certificate for any animal they are transporting - contact your airline to confirm whether they do or not. Your pet will need a passport which can be obtained from any private vet, and also, as with all dogs now, they must be microchipped. Again, check the DAFM website for all flight requirements when taking an animal out of Ireland.

If you haven’t, contact your airline to confirm that they’ll accept your pet on the day and flight you prefer, and reconfirm at least 48 hours before departure. Airports reserve the right to cancel a pet’s flight up to and including the time of the scheduled flight. This can happen due to a number of reasons such as: carrying cargo that would conflict with a pet, too many pets flying, etc. so please keep in contact with your airline.

Find out your check in time. Just as humans become stressed within an airport environment, pets can too because they don’t understand what’s going on. Check in early so that your pet can be sequestered away in a quiet place to relax.

To get your pet ready, cut down their amount of food the day before but give them the usual amount of water. Take your dog for a walk before leaving for the airport and again before check-in. A light meal 2 hours before handing your pet over will help calm it.

If you ship your pet as air freight, check with the airline to ensure the air freight facility is open so your pet may be claimed by the consignee. Always try to ship your pet on a weekday as there will be more staff working and that will help make your pet’s flight a smoother experience.

It may sound complicated, but if you prepare in advance and talk to your airline, you will soon be holidaying in the sunshine with your pet.  

Infographic by Petworld.ie Petworld Ireland

Rabbits, Chinchillas, Guinea Pigs, Gerbils, and Hamsters. These small creatures are usually chosen as pets for first-time pet owners due to the fact that they’re low maintenance and have gentle dispositions. They’re also ideal for people who want pets but don’t have much space or a huge garden. Once you’ve decided you want a small pet, it’s time to decide what kind you want.

Hamsters

Hamsters are solitary creatures but they’re also quite affectionate. In general, they do better on their own. They’re ideal for people who are more active at night as they like to sleep during the day but at night they can often spend hours on their wheels.

Gerbils

Gerbils can make great family pets but they do require effort on behalf of the owner. They are highly energetic and require companionship, so it is advisable to buy two at the same because introducing a new gerbil will lead to fighting. Gerbils are generally cleaner than other rodents and they enjoy digging, are active during the day and can live up to four years, maybe longer.

Guinea Pig

Guinea Pigs are very docile and affectionate pet making them great for families as long as the children are always supervised. They crave companionship so a neutered male with a female or two is ideal though littermate brothers who’ve been brought up together can sometimes live together. Always ask before introducing a new guinea pig to your home. Guinea Pigs require commitment, they need to be cleaned out regularly and they require quite a bit of space for their hutches. They live for 5-6 years. Regardless of what you’ve heard or think you know, Rabbits and Guinea Pigs do not live well together. They communicate differently, have different diets and the rabbit can often be hostile towards the Guinea Pig. They also need to be secure from dogs, cats, ferrets etc as they are very low on the food chain.

Chinchillas

Chinchillas are great for older children and adults. They’re friendly and inquisitive but also timid so rough handling can upset them. They can live up to 20 years so they are a long-term commitment. Chinchilla’s are mostly active in the evenings preferring to sleep during the day so they’re ideal for people who are away from home all day. While they can be kept on their own, a pair of same-sex chinchillas raised together from birth can give each other companionship and someone to snuggle up to without any hostilities. Try to buy your Chinchillas on the same day from the same place so that they will already be quite friendly.

Rabbits

Rabbits, while a great family pet, require a lot of attention and commitment. They need to be regularly cleaned, fed, groomed and interacted with. They can live 8-12 years and they need large hutches and space to move around. As they are quite messy, their hutches are often left out in the garden, so that is a definite consideration to be taken into account when thinking about buying a rabbit. Rabbits like to be social and inquisitive and aren’t recommended for young children as they don’t naturally like to snuggle, unlike a Chinchilla. Patience and time are essential in bonding with your rabbit. As with the other small pets mentioned above, rabbits do enjoy companionship and pairs should ideally be bought from together so that they’ll already be acquainted with each other.

Once you’ve chosen the small pet for you, you need to think about what it needs diet wise and what kind of home it requires.

Feeding.

Commercial rodent pellets are available for Gerbils and Hamsters at pet stores. Both creatures have similar diets so if you have a hamster, gerbil pellets are fine. For a more palatable diet, supplement the pellets with diced fruit and seeds, but don’t overdo it.

These little guys have a habit of filling up on the yummy stuff and ignoring the pellets, and eating that way will not satisfy their daily nutritional needs.

Guinea Pigs and Rabbits have very different diets and should always have specific food that’s catered for their nutritional needs. Always be careful when introducing wet food to your Rabbit or Guinea Pig, such as grass, as too much can upset their digestive system. If you have an outdoor run, cover the base until your pet has adjusted to the grass.

Water bottles attached to your pet’s cage or hutch prevent your pet from fouling the water or knocking it over into the bedding. Always make sure to keep fresh water readily available for your pet.

Housing
As the popularity of keeping small pets increases, more and more cages and hutches designed for them are appearing in pet stores all over. But, for Gerbils and Hamsters, I recommend a plastic pet cage. Small rodents are excellent escape artists, they can squeeze through the tiniest openings, including between standard cage bars if they are so inclined.

Line the cage with commercially available bedding or wood shavings and change bedding twice a week. You can avail of small pet litter for their cages which acts much like cat litter in disguising the odour of urine.

For their amusement (and yours), furnish the cage with an exercise wheel. Avoid metal wheels with gerbils, as their long tails tend to get caught in the slats, which could lead to serious injuries. Plastic wheels are safer. (Hamsters do not have long tails so the metal wheels are okay for them if you so choose). Always ensure the wheel chosen is large enough so that your small pet does not bend its back while using it.

Hide-a-way huts should be available, particularly for gerbils, as they need to have a quiet, dark place to sleep and a tub to indulge their digging habit. Tunnels and mazes are great to keep them stimulated as well.

Chinchillas require large cages with several levels so that they can bounce and run around. Wire mesh is essential to allow them to satisfy their need to chew. A nesting box full of hay or bedding is also necessary to give them somewhere to snuggle up and sleep. Always keep away from high heat and provide them with something to keep them cool.

Guinea Pigs need an elevated, dry and warm home safe from predators and filled with stimulation and comfort. Always make sure to place a shelter in their home, somewhere filled with hay where they can rest or spend some time apart. Create an exercise area filled with tubes and tunnels and boxes to allow them to explore and have fun. Do not keep your Guinea Pig in a garage or shed with vehicles, the exhaust fumes will have a detrimental effect on their health. If you keep them outside, make sure their hutch is weatherproof, but they’ll need to be relocated during terrible weather and the colder months. If kept indoors, they’ll need a spacious home, somewhere quiet and away from radiators but still warm, and away from poisonous plants or any other animals.

Rabbit Hutches are easy to buy and come in a variety of sizes and shapes with weatherproof materials and covers. Rabbits can remain outside all year around, or you can keep them indoors or only bring them in during the colder months. There’re a lot of choices available. Ideally, your rabbit hutch should be large enough to provide a ‘house’ area that you can fill with bedding where your rabbit can sleep securely. This area should be raised up from the ground to avoid damp and cold. There should also be a ladder to give your rabbit access to the closed off run or even the garden. Rabbits like to be active.

Now you’re stuck wondering what you should do with your pet? Do you go on holiday and leave them in a kennel? It works for some, but it’s costly, and can leave your pet feeling a bit abandoned, especially if they’ve not stayed in a kennel before. They will adapt but maybe you won’t. Maybe you’re the type of person who won’t enjoy themselves while their pet is at home? Perhaps you’re that overprotective type that phones to check up on them every five minutes and doesn’t notice your holiday passing by. Maybe you simply want to take all your family on holiday.

Not long ago, your choices on what to do with a pet were very limited. You left your pet in a kennel or you stayed at home. Luckily things have changed. You don’t have to go on holiday and leave your pet behind. If you’re not comfortable travelling a great distance with your pet, there are plenty of self catering apartments in Ireland that are pet friendly. Check out West Coast Holiday’s comprehensive list or Imagine Ireland’s collection of dog friendly cottages. This is perfect for exploring hidden treasures of Ireland with your pet.

Alternatively, if you’re looking for a place a little further away, such as Scotland, Wales or the rest of the UK, you can look at the Holiday Cottages website. They have a wide array of dog friendly cottages to be considered for all your holiday needs.

However, if you crave heat, sunshine, and blue skies, you still have options. There are plenty of holiday homes in Europe that will welcome you and your pet. Pawsabroad is an excellent website with choices of holiday homes in Austria, France, Spain, Portugal and Italy. Or check out their Facebook page to get up to date pet friendly accommodation.

As with anything, you should always contact the cottage owners just to make sure they’re still pet friendly. Be aware that some cottages may charge an extra fee for housing your pet so again, check with the owners to avoid any unnecessary surprises.

For information on how your pet can travel, the DAFM (Department of Agriculture, Food and the Marine) have a list of approved airlines and cargo carriers who transport pets.

So, just remember, as the holiday season approaches, you can always take your pet with you.

Female tarantulas are famously long-lived. Even in captivity, they've been known to live for over 20 years. Males, on the other hand, don't make it much beyond reaching sexual maturity, with a lifespan of just 5-10 years on average. In fact, males don't even molt once they reach maturity.

2. The largest tarantulas have a leg span of nearly 10 inches, or about the size of a dinner plate.

Even spider lovers might have trouble sitting still with a 10-inch tarantula headed toward them. Movie directors love to feature tarantulas in their horror flicks, which has given these big, fuzzy spiders an undeserved bad rap.

3. Tarantulas are quite docile and rarely bite people.

Many large predators would quickly make a meal of a tarantula, so they aren't too anxious to tangle with something as large as a person. And it wouldn't do a tarantula much good defensively to bite you since its venom doesn't pack much of a punch. A tarantula bite is no worse than a bee sting in terms of toxicity.

4. Tarantulas defend themselves by throwing needle-like, barbed hairs at their attackers.

If a tarantula does feel threatened, it uses its hind legs to scrape barbed hairs from its abdomen and flings them in the direction of the threat. You'll know it if they hit you, too, because they cause a nasty, irritating rash. Some people may even suffer a serious allergic reaction as a result. The tarantula pays a price, too – it winds up with a noticeable bald spot on its belly.

5. Tarantulas ambush small prey at night, stealthily sneaking up on a potential meal and then pouncing!

Tarantulas don't use webs to capture prey, they do it the hard way – hunting on foot. Smaller tarantulas eat insects, while some of the larger species will hunt frogs, mice, and even birds. Like other spiders, tarantulas paralyze their prey with venom, then use digestive enzymes to turn the meal into a soupy liquid.

6. A fall can be fatal to a tarantula.

Tarantulas are rather thin-skinned creatures, particularly around the abdomen. Even a fall from a short height can cause a deadly rupture of the tarantula's exoskeleton. For this reason, handling a tarantula is never recommended. It's easy to get spooked, or even more likely, for the tarantula to get spooked. What would you do if a huge, hairy spider started squirming in your hand? You'd probably drop it, and quickly.

7. Tarantulas have retractable claws on each leg, like cats.

Since falls can be so dangerous for tarantulas, it's important for them to get a good grip when climbing. Though most tarantulas tend to stay on the ground, they sometimes climb trees or other objects. By extending special claws at the end of each leg, a tarantula can get a better grasp of whatever surface it is attempting to scale.

8. Though tarantulas don't spin webs, they do use silk.

Like all spiders, tarantulas produce silk, and they put this resource to use in clever ways. Females use silk to decorate the interiors of their burrows, which is thought to strengthen the earthen walls. Males weave a silken mat on which to lay their sperm. Females encase their eggs in a silken cocoon. Tarantulas also use silk trap lines near their burrows to alert them to potential prey, or to the approach of predators. Scientists recently discovered tarantulas can produce silk with their feet, in addition to using spinnerets as other spiders do.

9. Most tarantulas are seen wandering during the summer months when males head out in search of females.

During the warmest months of the year, sexually mature males begin their quest to find a mate. Most tarantula encounters occur during this period when males disregard their own safety and wander during daylight hours. Should he find a burrowing female, he'll tap the ground with his legs, politely announcing his presence. The courtship is quick, with the male quickly handing over his sperm and trying to escape. To the female, this suitor is a good source of much-needed protein; she'll often try to eat him once their marriage is consummated.

10. Tarantulas can regenerate lost legs.

Because tarantulas molt throughout their lives, replacing their exoskeletons as they grow, they have the ability to repair any damage they've sustained. Should a tarantula lose a leg, a new one will reappear as if by magic the next time it molts. Depending on the tarantula's age and the length of time before its next molt, the regenerated leg may not be quite as long as the one it lost. However, over successive molts, the leg will gradually get longer until it reaches normal size again. Tarantulas will sometimes eat their detached legs as a way to recycle the protein.

Global Running Day is on the 1st of June. The aim is to get people running. The truly dedicated pledge a certain amount in May and then probably run a marathon or three or twenty-seven if you’re Eddie Izzard. Most people are not Eddie Izzard.

Dogs are great partners for running - when they’re not trying to trip you up or take you for a run. So why not take advantage of Global Running Day to bond with your dog? It’s great exercise for both of you.

While dogs always seem like natural runners, it’s always important to train your dog to run with you, not only to build up their stamina but to encourage good habits.

First, ascertain if your dog is in good running shape. Older dogs and young pups often have bone issues. For the young, their bones are still developing and aren’t strong enough. Older dogs, like older people, often have weaker joints and bones prone to breakage, not to mention respiratory issues that can make running more of a chore than an enjoyment. So don’t put your dog under unnecessary strain.

Train a dog to run much like you’d train a person. You are not going to immediately put on running shoes and do a marathon - why on earth would you expect your dog to start off at your pace? Take it slow and build up your distance.

Begin with ten minutes and add ten minutes every week until you reach your target distance. This helps strengthen your dog’s bones and muscles and lowers the chance of injury. Eventually, your dog will adapt to your pace but it will take time and training.

Yes, it will be frustrating. If your dog is active, they will probably want to lunge into a sprint and you’ll fight to hold them in place. Or they might be slow and get distracted by a sudden scent and yank your arm out of its socket.

Frustrating to be sure, but part of the training process. Remember potty training, and how you thought you’d finally got it and then your pup found the tiniest hole behind the back of the TV when you were out of the room and you didn’t catch it until you smelled it? But now look at them, all grown up and standing patiently at the door or signalling when they need to go outside and take care of business. It takes a bit of time but you will get there.

As with any exercise, remember to warm up. A bit of walking to loosen the limbs can work wonders and, again, helps lessen the chance of injuries.

Leash training is important. If your dog pulls on the leash, you’ll find running with them difficult. See above for examples. So shorten your leash so that your dog has to stay beside you. There will be a bit of tugging and strain, but eventually through practice, you’ll train your dog to run alongside you - and if you do the same with walking, everything will be easier.

More importantly, the right equipment can help. Use a harness when running with your dog to prevent injury and take the strain away from your dog’s neck. A running lead is a great investment. These leads are attached to waist belts which keep your hands free, while making your run as comfortable as possible for both you and your dog.

Once you’re properly equipped, choose a target distance, 5k or 10k and steadily build your running up until you reach it and then keep running. Remember to take days off to let your dog recuperate, especially at the start.

When you do start to run longer distances, you’ll need to schedule in water breaks and deal with their toilet issues. You can bring a poop bag dispenser with you or if you get your dog to go before and after the run, they’ll be less likely to go during the run. Remember to carry a light and wear reflective gear if you run at night.

A few quick dos and don’ts.

• Do make sure to check your dog’s paws for injuries after a run and before, to make sure they haven’t cut themselves.

• Don’t ignore warning signs either, if your dog stops running, don’t continue dragging them. If they’re showing signs of overheating, take them to a shaded area and give them cool or tepid water - ice water could be too extreme and make them vomit.

• Don’t go running with your dog on a hot day - should that occurrence ever happen in Ireland. Do wait before you give your dog a treat after running. After strenuous exercise like running, your dog won’t feel like eating and neither will you. Just wait until you settle before you fix yourself a snack and get your dog a treat.  

Simple dog training tips

Dog training goes hand-in-hand with dog owning. Dogs are pack creatures and they need authority, as their owner, you become the pack leader, the alpha. It is your job to protect your dog and take care of their safety. While obedience training is an essential class that all owners should enroll in, there are some quick and important commands that you can teach your dog while waiting for a class to begin.

Sit

“Sit” is one of the most important commands a pup should learn. It shows good manners and can often keep your dog safe when meeting new people or new dogs.

• Hold treat close to your dog’s nose so that they know it’s there.

• Raise the treat so that your dog’s bottom lowers to the ground

• Say the command word: “Sit”

• Once your dog is sitting, give them the treat.

Come

“Come” is just as essential for your dog’s training. You want this command to instill a sense of urgency in your dog to reach your side as soon as possible and not run in the opposite direction. Practice this in an enclosed area first.

• Use a leash - not a retractable lead as this could scare the pup when dropped.

• Use the “Come” command and step back, giving the leash a gentle tug in the right direction.

• Keep your command tone positive.

• Praise the pup as they approach.

• Give treat - not always food - when they reach you.

• Increase distance.

• After this has been successfully mastered, drop leash when calling pup to ensure they respond to the command and not the tug of the leash.

• Add in distractions and if pup becomes distracted, give the leash a firm tug.  

Stay

Sometimes you need to do something but your dog is following you like a shadow. “Stay” is the perfect command to teach your dog to remain in place.

• To begin with, ask your dog to sit.

• Hold up a hand with palm facing your dog and say, “Stay”

• Take a few steps back

• If your dog stays, reward.

• Gradually increase the distance

• Always reward your dog for staying in place, even if it’s only for a few seconds.

Leave it

“Leave it” is a vital command for your dog’s safety. Sometimes when walking, your dog might come across a discarded piece of waste. By simply telling your dog to leave it, you are stopping your dog from engaging with something potentially life endangering.

• Place a treat in each hand.

• Show one closed fist with a treat inside to your dog and say, “leave it”.

• Let your dog try to retrieve the treat by sniffing, licking, nuzzling etc and ignore him while he does this.

• Once they stop, give them the treat from the other hand.

• Repeat until your dog becomes less interested in the closed hand and moves away when you say “leave it”.

• After this, only give your dog their treat when they move away and look at you.

To up the ante, include a favourite treat and a less favourite treat.

• Place the less favourite treat on the ground and say, “leave it”, then cover it with your hand.   

• Wait until your dog ignores the treat and then remove the less favourite treat and give your dog its tastiest treat.

• Once they’ve got it, place the less tasty treat on the floor but don’t completely cover it, leaving some space between the hand and the treat.  

• As your dog learns to ignore the treat, begin to move your hand farther away until your hand is about 15cm from the treat.

• Now he’s ready to practice with you standing up.

The key factors to remember while training your dog:

Don’t rush the process.
Your dog is learning something new. Don’t make things worse by getting frustrated or treating it like a chore.

Keep training short and daily.
Short increments of 15 minutes or less help keep the puppy’s attention on the lesson and reinforcing it several times daily, when you can, does help your dog learn faster.

Keep your Puppy stimulated.
Dogs like to learn but they need it to be interesting. Keep things varied and change up people and the room to help your pup learn to do their lesson with differences around them.

Train early and train often.
As mentioned above, short and regular training sessions keep the lesson fresh in your dog’s mind and the younger they are, the easier it is for them to learn.

Keep distractions away from your dog.
Don’t train your dog in a room with their toys or with a bunch of strangers who may derail the lesson by distracting your dog.

Don’t counteract your commands.
Don’t train your dog to come to you and then immediately punish them by tying them up or giving them a bath. For those situations, fetch your dog so that you dog does not associate the “Come” command with unwelcome scenarios.

The new law for microchipping has come into practice as of April 2016. This law states that you must microchip your dog and have it registered with a government approved database ASAP. To sell a dog you must produce a registered certificate. To buy a dog you must legally transfer ownership or chip it. It’s law now. Owners caught with a non-microchipped dog will have a short period of time to get their dog chipped. Those who choose not to chip their dog will face fines or up to six months in jail. Those indicted will face bigger fines and longer sentencing.

My dog isn’t microchipped.

You should microchip your dog immediately. It’s really easy. Most vets are registered to microchip your dog, so shop around. Prices range from €20-€50 - much cheaper than a €5,000 fine.

The owner of the dog has to be present during this procedure and they must bring photo ID and a recent proof of address with them. This is to ensure that the details registered on the database are correct and up-to-date. It also means that only the registered chipper input these details on the database so they cannot be falsified.

The actual procedure for the dog is relatively painless, akin to a vaccination. The vet will ask if the dog has been microchipped before and they’ll check just to be on the safe side. Assuming no chip is there, they’ll then inject the microchip into the back of the neck. The dog will barely feel it.

Then the vet will scan the chip to make sure it’s active and attach a sticker of the corresponding barcode onto the certificate and they’ll register the details on the database. It takes about 10 minutes at most.

Important: You cannot go online and register your dog anymore.

Who are the Government Approved Databases:

• Animark

• Fido

• The Irish Coursing Club

• The Irish Kennel Club

My dog is already chipped

You do not need to rechip your dog but you will need to contact your database and request a new certificate. You may need to pay a small fee to obtain it.

If you do not know your dog’s microchip number or if your dog was previously chipped, your local vet should scan for free. If you don’t know your database, you can go to www.europepetnet.com and search the number.

Benefits of Microchipping

On the surface, the major benefit is for the return of lost dogs. A simple scan of the chip and the dog is returned to his owners.

But, it’s the dog’s welfare that benefits the most from microchipping.

• As of this month, all dogs must be chipped. If you’re buying a pup, the seller must provide a registered certificate, which means you are getting a legally acquired dog. This will, in time, put illegal and unscrupulous puppy farms out of business.

• It will act as a deterrent to abandoned dogs and help lower the number of stray dogs in pounds.

• It will also help reduce the cost to farmers and make dog owners accountable for their dogs attacking sheep, as this can be a costly issue.

Naturally there will be a few initial teething problems as there are with any new laws brought in, but long term, this law will benefit all dogs and hopefully decrease the amount of unwanted dogs in this country.

More details can be found here: https://www.fido.ie/chipcheck and www.ncm.ie

Should I brush my dog’s teeth?

Ideally, yes. After all, you brush your own teeth twice a day at the very least. The myth that a dog’s mouth is cleaner or even self-cleaning is just that, a myth. Yes, dogs are lucky in that they’re not as prone to cavities as we are, but even the strongest teeth need some dental care to combat plaque and discoloration. Worse than that, no dental care can often lead to more serious issues such as gum disease, heart, kidney and liver diseases and these are often fatal.

Brushing their teeth

Starting to brush your dog’s teeth when they’re a puppy gets you both into a familiar routine and your puppy will often love the attention. But you can start brushing your dog’s teeth at any time. The key factor is to get a pet toothbrush and dog toothpaste (do not use human toothpaste, fluoride is toxic to dogs) that your dog likes - most pet stores stock them or you can ask your vet for advice. There is a variety of dental care products out there from toothbrushes, finger toothbrushes, tooth gel, mouth rinse, and oral hygiene kits.

Let your dog get used to the brush, the toothpaste - do they like the taste? - and to you touching their mouth. Find the perfect time to brush your dog’s teeth, preferably four to five times a week and possibly after exercising your dog so that they’re exhausted and more willing to sit quietly. It might take some work but if the benefits are worth it.

Promoting clean teeth between brushing

Ideally brushing your dog’s teeth regularly is the best prevention you can give your dog but with busy lives, caring for families and the drive to make money to pay bills, it’s not easy to do something like clean a dog’s teeth. Particularly when your dog might not be enthused about the idea. However there are a few, not substitutes, but options to help promote healthy teeth in between brushing:

Dry dog food such as Royal Canin and Eukanuba have developed specialised kibble that encourages dogs to chew and in doing that, mimics the brushing effect to help promote good dental health. Also try feeding your dog dry dog food that contains calcium and phosphorous for strong healthy teeth and jaws and is free of artificial additives and preservatives.

Giving your dog a good synthetic bone, dental chew or chew toy can help encourage chewing and strengthen teeth but it’s only a temporary measure and doesn’t compensate for actually brushing your dog’s teeth.

Trip to the Vet

Going to the Vet for a dental cleaning is another option, but it does cost money. Much like a dentist trip, this should be a periodic visit, though if your dog starts to exhibit symptoms such as bad breath, discolouration, red swollen gums, not eating, excessive drooling or pawing at face or mouth, please seek immediate veterinary advice. However, a dental checkup every six-twelve months could end up saving you money and heartache in the long run.

Radio Fences - Debunking the electrifying myth.

You got a puppy for Christmas? Fantastic. Only now the dog is getting big and energetic and wants to run around!

So how do you keep that dog in your garden during play time?

Do you set up a large security fence around the perimeter of your property?

Sure, that could work. But what about that flower bed you planted last year? Or that shed you put your rubbish into? Because dogs like to rummage. It’s one of their favourite things in the world. What about a wired off run? Also an option if you don’t mind your view being spoiled.

The perfect compromise is the radio fence. It’s non-intrusive, sets up a boundary of where your pet can and can’t go, and gives enough space for your pet to roam and exercise.

There’s a lot of fear mongering over radio fences and, more importantly, a lot of questions. So let’s debunk a few myths and look into the benefits of radio fences.

How does the Pet Safe Radio Fence work?

The fence works on the idea of electronic stimulation.

The Pet Safe wire is placed underground around the perimeter. It acts as a transmitting antenna to the battery-operated receiver on the collar that the dog wears. As the dog approaches the wire, the receiver picks up the transmitted signal and begins to emit a beep that the dog can clearly hear.

This beep is the first warning that the dog is getting too close to the wire. If the dog continues towards the wire, the collar will give the dog a mild shock from two contact points protruding from the collar.

Will the shock hurt my dog?

No.

This is a huge concern for most pet owners who have never dealt with a radio fence but here’s the truth: the shock emitted by the collar is not designed to electrocute or hurt your dog. Petsafe’s products meet the rigorous standards of the EMCA (Electronic Collar Manufacturers Association), so no, there is no intention to harm your pet. It’s simply there to get the dog’s attention and you should always start with the lowest setting and work up.

The shock itself is more like a static shock, the kind of surprising snap you get from touching your car door. It’s a mild tingly sensation that makes your fingers curl and teaches you to be careful. The collar works in much the same way, gently discouraging your dog from crossing the invisible line.

How old should my pet be before I use a containment collar or Petsafe collar?

Six months old is the recommended age or when your pet understands basic commands such as sit, stay and no.

How will my dog know where the radio fence is?  

Once the wire is placed underground, you will set a series of flags along the boundary line to show the dog where the Pet Safe radio fence is. This is also where the training begins, usually 15 minutes 3 times a day for 2 weeks.

Training is essential and to begin, you:

• Switch your receiver to the lowest ‘tone only’ setting and put on the collar or hold it close enough for the dog to hear the beep. If your collar doesn’t have that function, do not attach the collar to the dog. For this post,  I’m going to assume you have the tone only function.

• Attach a long leash to a SECOND collar, making sure the extra collar doesn’t place pressure on the contact points.

• Take the dog around the safe zone, guiding him away when the beep sounds. This is to teach your pet the importance of the beeping. Each time the dog approaches the line and the beep sounds, give the leash a firm tug to encourage the dog away from the flags.

• Praise the dog.

• After a few days of training where the dog returns to the safe area whenever he hears the beep, remove the cover from the contact points and allow the dog to be corrected.

• Continue tugging him back by the leash to the safe area.

• Again, each time the dog returns to the safe area, praise him/her.

• Once the boundary is established, add in distractions and more praise every time the dog returns to the safe area.

• During the second week, you can remove the leash and monitor your pet.

• After you’re satisfied your pet knows where the boundary is, remove every second flag every day until all the flags are gone. Keep flags for future use.

This training is essential to how successful the radio fence will be. After all, it’s a training measure to ensure your dog stays in the safe area.

Any extra information can be found on PetSafe’s website or YouTube channel.

What type of collar will I need?

While mostly I’ve been focusing on dogs, there are Pet Safe collars for cats available too. If you have more than one dog, or a cat and a dog, extra collars can be purchased. There are collars for smaller dogs, medium to large dogs and, for stubborn dogs, there is a collar with a receiver that emits a stronger static simulation.

What are the benefits of using a pet containment radio fence?

• Suffice to say, the fact that the radio fence is underground means you can have an unencumbered view. For instance, if the back of your house overlooks a lake, a beach or a wooded area, there will be no need for a fence to keep your dog in. It’s also perfect for those residential areas where stone walls or timber fencing are prohibited.

• The fence can also go anywhere, over rocky ground, through wooded areas, etc.

• Not to mention the fence doesn’t need planning permission.

• The fence is designed to work for ⅓ acres but can be expanded to 25 acres with additional wire and kit.

Will the containment system keep other animals out of my garden?

The purpose of the radio fence is to give your pet boundaries, however while it can keep your pet in, it cannot keep anything else out. For that reason, it would be highly advisable to have some form of security fence on your property, not only as a backup, but to prevent others, humans or animals, from coming onto your property and encountering your dog.

Maintenance of the Fence & Collar - How do I care for my Petsafe Radio Fence Collar?

Like anything, the radio fence requires some maintenance:

• As the receiver on the collar runs by battery, you should always check how much juice is left and replace the battery as necessary. Replacement Pet Safe batteries can be purchased here.

• Also check your wire every few weeks to make sure it hasn’t moved.  

• Never leave the receiver collar on for more than 12 hours.

• Remove the collar when the pet is indoors.

• Make sure the collar fits properly and isn’t too tight, check every few hours to make sure you can fit two fingers between the collar and the dog’s neck, and reposition the collar.

• Never connect a lead to the collar as that can add extra pressure.

• Wash the dog’s neck and the contact points weekly with a damp cloth.

• With a thicker coat you may need to trim (not shave) the dog’s hair in the area of the contact points.  

• Always read the instructions.

Any further information regarding the radio fence and collar can be found here.

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